HOW TO DETERMINE IF A ROLEX IS A FAKE OR AUTHENTIC Bonus! New list of real Rolex Serial Numbers By Ryan of NOTE: I HAVE SOLD THIS EBOOK I WROTE FOR $9.95 FOR YEARS.
Rolex Serial Number 62510h Free
EVEN THOUGH IT IS NOT, IT IS HELPFUL FOR EBAYERS, SO I AM NOW GIVING IT FOR FREE ON EBAY TO HELP PEOPLE AVOID GETTING SCAMMED. PEOPLE HAVE BEEN COPYING MY EBOOK FOR YEARS AND RESELLING IT, AND NOW I AM GIVING IT TO YOU FREE OF CHARGE! IF YOU APPRECIATE THIS PLEASE VOTE 'YES' FOR THIS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE! If you know of any other helpful tips on how to tell a fake please let me know and I will update this eBay guide. Rolex makes great watches and unfortunately there are many fakes flooding eBay and other places.
Many fakes are easily spotted. Such fakes range from Japanese quartz movement pieces to flimsy dials and bezels.
There are modern fakes that are very well made and hard to spot as fakes, most of these being Swiss made fakes. Below are some tests that apply to all mechanical Oysters. Some well made fakes might slip through these beginning tests.
If you are still in doubt, have the seller open the watch case and check the caliber. If they refuse to do so then DO NOT buy from them, regardless of the “good deal” they try to give you.
Many sellers prey on a buyer’s greed and offer such a low price that the buyer’s greed will override their common sense. Do not be one of these buyers. Test #1 – Check if the watch you are being offered even exists. Many fakes are of watches that Rolex does not even make! Go to Rolex’s website for their line of currently produced models. They have in depth pictures that can be very helpful in determining their real ones from a fake one being offered. You can sometimes find information on discontinued models in older literature, but in those cases check the movement.
Test #2 – If the watch is stopped you should be able to move it in a few clockwise circular movements and it will run. Rolex’s automatic movement is reliable and should not be broken. If it refuses to run I would not buy it. Dynamic link download cs6 windows. Test #3 – The second hand should sweep smoothly, not tick or have any other mannerisms.
Any other motion by the second hand is quartz movement and a fake (with the exception of Rolex’s Oysterquartz models). Test #4 – A second hand that appears to float or sweep smoothly could still be a fake. An authentic Rolex second hand will move about 5-6 times per second giving it the sweeping motion. Does the watch give a ticking sound or is it jumpy and random in its sweeping second hand motion?
If so, then it is most certainly a fake. Some older models may have a noticeable 5 ticks a second, but it will be consistent, never jerky or random. Test #5 – Listen to the ticking. It should be almost inaudible with a very fast beat. Slow ticking is a sure sign of a fake. Test #6 – When you apply the circular motion in Test #2 put it to your ear and listen to it carefully.
Rolex Serial Number 62510h
The motion makes the winding motor go round. On an authentic Rolex you should not be able to hear the rotor.
Test #7 – Test the crown and move it and maneuver it. The crown of an authentic Rolex is always a screw down one with a diameter of 6mm for most and 5mm on early Oysters. The crown must bear the Rolex crown with a line under it or three dots for the triplock crown on the Submariner model and Sea Dweller model (these models are 8mm). Test #8 – The crown’s stem has an o-ring which is uncovered when the crown is unscrewed and pulled out. This is on triplock crowns such as the Submariner, Sea Dweller, etc.).
Test #9 – Look carefully at the dial and hands. The dial should have certain inscriptions (some models will not have certain inscriptions). These inscriptions should be clear and crisp. They should be nicely colored and finished. Fakes are notorious for poor inscriptions, mismarkings, and misplaced inscriptions.
The hands on fakes many times are too short and misshaped. The fakes also many times will have mixed up the hands for other models with the model you are looking. For example, a Daytona has rounded ends on the hands, but many fakes will use the flat tipped Day-Date hands. A common thread in the fakes in inconsistency and lack of attention to detail. J n reddy finite element method ebook. Test #10 – The hour markers, second hand, hour hand, and minute hand should all match the case. That is to say that they should have a gold color for gold and two tone model cases.
For silver model cases they should be silver. This is not universal, as older models can have all manner of different coloration combos. This mainly applies to current models.
Test #11 – The bottom of the Rolex case will never have a glass bottom. The bottom is steel normally and bears no hallmarks, inscriptions, serial numbers, logos, etc. It will be plain, with the possible exception of a previous owner’s personal engravings. There are a few authentic watches that have “Rolex” engraved on the back along with COMEX.
These watches are rare and highly desirable. Other exceptions to this rule are ladies’ models pre-mid 1990 which had “Original Rolex Design” or a similar phrase engraved on the caseback in an arc pattern. The Sea-Dweller caseback have “Rolex Oyster Original Gas Escape Valve” engraved around the outside of the caseback in an arc pattern.
Test #12 – The bezel should match the dial color and the model. See reference numbers below. Test #13 – An authentic Rolex case is very well finished. It does not have sharp edges with the exception of the lug ends.
The sides of the case are mirror polished flawlessly. Test #14 – Check the numbers. The seller should give you the opportunity to take the bracelet off and check the numbers located between the lugs. The serial number is located next to the “6 O’clock” point of the dial and can tell you the approximate age of the watch. The reference number is located next to the “12 O’Clock” point of the dial and is engraved with the phrase “ORIGINAL ROLEX DESIGN” and a 4-5 digit number under it. This number MUST match the model.
(SEE SERIAL NUMBERS BELOW)! Some better fakes may have serial numbers, but they are generally acid etched in and not engraved. If the watch does have a serial number but it looks poorly engraved or barely etched then DO NOT buy it! In 2005 Rolex started engraving the Case’s Serial Number in the inside edge of the case (at the “6 O’clock” position, under the crystal and below the bezel).
Test #15 – If no numbers are found between the lugs then the watch is a fake. The correct numbers do help ensure it is real, as wrong numbers assure it is a fake. Test #16 – The bracelet is not an easy way to tell a fake because Rolex bracelets are not very well made. You could easily mistake an authentic Rolex for a fake and a well made fake for an authentic if you were using the bracelet as a deciding factor. I have seen Swiss made fake Rolex’s that have bracelets that are better than the authentic Rolex bracelets! Some pre-owned watches may have an after market bracelet if the original broke, so the bracelet is not a reliable determination of the authenticity of a watch. Test #17 – If the watch in question is gold then be sure to check and see if the name “Montre Rolex S.A.” is engraved inside the works of the watch.
The well made gold fakes have been engraved with false numbers. Test #18 – Gold, diamonds, etc. Should be checked by a certified jeweler for authenticity. No Rolex used fake gold, plating, etc. Test #19 – Date magnification crystal should magnify the date 2.5 times greater than its normal.
The fakes barely magnify, if at all. Some fakes now just have larger numbers so that it gives the appearance of the date being magnified.
An authentic Rolex’s date magnification will make the number almost fill the magnification crystal; the fakes do not duplicate this or do so in a blurry and poor way making them easily noticeable as fakes. Test #20 – Yacht-master’s have a larger minute hand than normal. Fake Rolexes have the same size minute hand as other Rolex models in order to save money from having to produce a minute hand for only one model. This is an easy way to spota fake Yacht-master.
Real Rolex Serial Numbers Rolex model numbers have 4-5 digits. The first two or three tell you the type of watch. If the watch has five digits, the second from the last describes the type of bezel the model should have. The last number describes the metal that the watch is made from (with a few exceptions).
Rolex Number Reference. Rolex frequently uses numbers and letters to identify model year, model number, bracelet type, as well as other production variables. Although not verified by Rolex, these numbers are fairly prevalent on the Internet. This chart is compiled from various sources on the web and there are some variances on the early years (1925 - 1943). Please Minus4Plus6 to report any errors/corrections. Rolex Serial Number Listing Like many watch manufacturers, Rolex identifies the production year using either serial number range, or a letter prefix.
The case numbers below roughly indicates the year the watch case was produced and distributed to Authorized Dealers (ADs). The case serial number does not indicate when the watch movement was produced which increases the possibility that the movement is older than the watch case. Nonetheless, the case number is a generally accepted method to roughly determine the age of a Rolex watch. The case number is located between the lugs at 6:00PM, and on newer Rolex models starting in 2003 the serial number is located on the Rolex-Rolex-Rolex rehaut at the 6:00 o'clock position. Rolex reached 999,999 in mid-1950's and began over starting with 100,000. During the serial number transition years during the 1950's, the manufacture date was stamped the inside of the case-back with a Roman numeral designation for quarter. For example, a II 54, indicated for the second quarter of 1954.
In the same way that Rolex serial numbers allow you to date the year of your Rolex you can also date the year of your Rolex bracelet. Rolex bracelet codes are found on the inner part of the Rolex bracelet clasp and started in the 1950’s when Rolex also began stamping the inner caseback of their watches. The only difference being that Rolex used roman numerals for the ‘quarter’ stamp in the case back and standard numerals for their ‘quarter’ bracelet stamps – so a 4th quarter watch from 1965 would be stamped IV.65 in the case back but 4.65 for the bracelet and with the quarter number stamped above the year.
This method of date stamping bracelets continued, like the casebacks, until the early 70’s when it stopped. From 1976 Rolex again started dating bracelets but this time with a letter to designate the year and number to designate the month of manufacture. So for instance, from the table below, we can denote that a bracelet stamped F7 was manufactured in July 1981.
If a bracelet has an additional ‘S’ stamped along with the year and date then it is a service replacement. More recently with SEL (solid end link) bracelets Rolex have been stamping the part number, date code and Rolex crown into the inner part of the end link and so not visible without removing the bracelet. USA manufactured bracelets differ in their stampings to their European counterparts in that many bracelets have no date at all and those which are dated are month/year stamped rather than quarter/year. They are also stamped U.S.A. On the clasp to differentiate.
The table below should help you date your rolex bracelet. If you have a query please feel free to and if I can help you I will certainly try. You can also find your correct bracelet type for your watch by looking at my.
Home » 600dpi USB Scanner Use the links on this page to download the latest version of 600dpi USB Scanner drivers. All drivers available for download have been scanned by antivirus program.
The Vintage Rolex Case Number Project The Vintage Rolex Case Number Project Rolex serial or case numbers have long been a source of frustration, amazement and amusement to collectors trying to determine the age of their vintage Rolex. In the '50s Rolex came to the end of the six digit run (999,999) and rather than add a seventh digit, they, in their wisdom, decided to simply reuse existing numbers starting at 10,000.
During this period, Rolex ameliorated the problem somewhat by stamping the inside of the caseback with the quarter and year of manufacture. A watch made in the third quarter of 1957 was stamped III57 for example. This has it's own problems as over the years some watches have had their casebacks changed or replaced further confusing the issue. Our intention is to have the most accurate and extensive repository of Rolex case numbers available.
The internet has made research possible that has never been available before. Web sites, eBay and collectors are among the sources we can now use to collect numbers with supportive information to ensure the accuracy of what we include in this project. This is an ongoing project and will be updated as new information is provided. Richard Ong (RichardNYC on the forum) is the editor of this project and has done a fantastic job collecting the information you see here.
Richard will coordinate with other contributors who choose to participate in the project. The Project is subject to US and international copyright laws. We have credited sources whenever possible. We have included the chart, with permission, compiled by James M. Dowling and Jeffery P. Hess that is included in their excellent Rolex biography; The Best of Time, Rolex Watches: An Unauthorized History. Dowling, Jeffrey P.
A link to Amazon is provided below and we highly recommend you add this book to your library. The Dowling/Hess chart is acknowledged as the most accurate currently available and is reproduced in it's entirety below.
If you would like to help with the Project, please contact with your information. Credit will be given to contributors. Please submit your information in the same format as the database column headings. It is okay if all information is not known, such as inside the case if one has not seen it opened.
It is also okay to update at a later date.
I have used many websites to help authenticate watches. For Rolex you can find the serial number on the inside of the case as well as on the case below the 6 minute marker after taking the band off. The newer models have the serial numbers on the inside ring just outside of the dial. Make sure your serial number matches the ref number your watch is.
Also make sure the band is the right band for your model. Lastly, make sure your watch has the correct movement. Here are the websites to cross ref your check If you want the want to check all watches you can purchase this software below.